17 Mar More Farkles // KTM 3-Fiddy
Midwest Engineering Clutch Lever
Ever since I saw the Midwest Clutch Lever review on Cross Training Enduro Skills YouTube channel, I thought it would be really cool to try on my new 350 EXC-F. This lever also helps if you keep the stock bar switch, as you will soon find out with the stock lever and bar switch, the tension adjuster can hit the switch. I discussed this on my KTM 3-Fiddy Talk #1 post.
This lever does as advertised.. it reduces the pull on the clutch even more, making it a much lighter pull. The way it is designed is for the clutch to engage slightly after you release it off the grip, so it may take some a bit to get use to. The thought behind this, is to have more hand strength on the grip with the lever pulled almost all the way in.. I think I’m going to like this a lot but will report back when I get more rides with it.
More Info:
Midwest Brembo2 B2C
Slavens KTM Swingarm Protectors
What better way to keep your brand spankin’ new bike’s swingarms from getting destroyed by Missouri rock…..Slavens Swingarm Protectors, and they are cheap! Worth every penny.. and on the 2017 KTM’s they just make your bike look extra sick…
More Info:
Slavens Racing Swingarm Protectors
Tusk Billet Rear Disk Guard
A fellow KTM rider reported really good luck with the Tusk Disc guard after several months of riding. So I thought, what the heck… why not?! it’s a addon that gets abused no matter the brand! We’ll see how it holds up & it looks sweet!
More Info:
Tusk Billet Rear Disk Guard
Sicass Racing Multi-Function Bar Switch
Since the stock bar switch is rather wide, I decided to get a thiner switch that also adds the option to turn OFF the headlight when I wanted to! A couple other things I really like about this switch is it’s truly PLUG-n-PLAY and the indicator lights are awesome!
More Info:
Sicass Racing Multi-Function Bar Switch
Sicass Racing Key Switch Eliminator
Like I discussed in my KTM 3-Fiddy Talk #1, the ignition key is just in a bad spot.. so I decided to get rid of it!!! Easiest mod ever!
- Pull headlight assembly off
- Remove right turnsignal
- Unplug and remove key switch
- Remove seat
- Find white connector(below on left), replace with key switch eliminator(below on right)!
- Put everything back together.
Remove This
Install This
My next post I’ll show how to install the Sicass Racing Front LED turn signals, new flasher and how to wire the Sicass Indicator Wiring kit, which is required if you have all LED turn signals like I do.
Stay tuned!
Adam Morrisett
Posted at 07:20h, 04 AugustHave you ever had trouble with the key switch eliminator? Like you battery being dead when you go to start it after a week of not riding?
Basher
Posted at 11:46h, 04 AugustHey Adam… No I’ve never had an issue with the battery being dead with the key switch eliminator. Have you had issues?
Adam Morrisett
Posted at 12:50h, 04 AugustYup. Walked out to my bike this morning and nothing… had to give it the old push start.
Adam Morrisett
Posted at 18:24h, 04 AugustAlso wondering how you like that MW clutch lever?
Basher
Posted at 11:19h, 06 AugustThat is weird about your battery… so the kill switch was off and battery went dead. I’m going to run some voltmeter on it to see if it indeed is sending juice with the switch off.
So the MW lever is really good.. but it is different way of clutch control.. it’s theory is to keep the lever close to the grip and engage with little amount of release. Its different than others that engage when clutch lever is released further, so takes a bit getting use to. Also, it was a bit difficult for me to adjust when then the clutch engaged.,. maybe it’s just me but spend some time adjusting it so you aren’t burning your clutch plates prematurely… it’s definitely way easier to pull and slip clutch with maximum grip control.. all in all I like it! The front brake lever is next!